Sunday, 31 May 2015

The great penguin journey

The next day came bright and early, as there was much to see and limited time to see it in. The long road south would be filled with novel landscapes that would tempt us to linger and enjoy all the views they had to offer. We were, however, on a tide schedule as we needed to get to Curio Bay at low tide for our best chance to see the rare and highly endangered yellow-eyed penguin. So we ate our breakfast and as the sun just began its own daily journey, we packed the car and headed off as the frost just started to lift from the grass.



Once again, we were treated to the cloud dusted blue sky, interrupted frequently by the enormous figure of the southern mountains.



Our first big distraction was a sign post sitting at the crossroads where we turned to head parallel with the mountains on our journey to the ocean. Somehow it doesn't get tiring to get out and take pictures with these signs, seeing where you are in relation to the rest of the world as you stand on the corner of the middle of nowhere.


We crossed the logging roads, great fields of sheep and early morning mist as we traveled further south. The sun danced across the mountain tops for most of the morning and as it rose in the sky, the shadows of valleys transformed to the usual yet never tiring, multitude of greens.




It was difficult not to stop on every corner and get out to try and take in the enormity of the landscape around us. I tried to keep these stops to a minimum, but we were prompt to get out and stretch our legs when we could, and took a delightful pit-stop at this tiny village cafe which was full of antiques and home made preservatives with a little ole lady at the counter to complete the grandmother stereotype.



Finally, by mid-morning, we were in the presence of crashing waves and long sandy beaches. Although the surf itself was not particularly inviting, the windswept shores were perfect for leisurely walks. We kept our stopping here to a minimum as we knew we needed to get through Invercargill to get to Curio Bay, but we did manage to find yet another signpost at McCraken's Rest!



Refusing to drive by this gorgeous beach and not take the opportunity to stretch my legs again, we stopped at Gemstone-Beach, an area where tides and freshwater have eroded away parts of what was an ancient river bed, where sandstone walls encase the smooth round river rocks. Although we found no precious minerals, it was nice to get out and walk the sandy beach. We also found what appeared to be a hut built into the sandstone and limestone cliffs that we guessed could have belonged to some early prospector although there was nothing to indicate who or why it was built.




Driving through Invercargill where we would stay that evening, we headed into increasingly inclement weather. Into the Catlins we blazed forwards, driving across the forested hills and paddock fields with only small mountains to accompany us. We made decent timing, and even had time to stop and enjoy our lunch at this tiny roadside rest stop. Arriving a bit before low tide, we were able to enjoy the sites in Curio Bay without fear of incoming tide. In the now raining weather, we trudged across the rocky intertidal remaining vigilant for resting sea lions.



Great Antarctic southerlies sent chilling winds and crashing waves against the headlands in great salty sprays that sprinkled the tide pools high above the ocean. Enormous kelp were the only large macro algae that was able to maintain it's purchase on the rocks at the interface of ocean and air, with their enormous holdfasts that were thicker than my arm. Their great fronds surged with the water, flowing in and out with each breaking wave.




Having seen no sea lions, we ventured to the cliffs to get a different view of the beach and crashing waves of Curio Bay, and hopefully spot one of these sea lions or perhaps a dolphin or two playing in the waves. Although there was no major animals to be seen, the waves were spectacular as they collided with the bedrock that sits guard, protecting the sheltered waters of the bay.






Having spotted neither sea lion or dolphin from these vantage points and the sandy beach of Curio Bay, we headed to the petrified forest where we could see the remains of ancient trees and hopefully catch a glimpse of the elusive yellow-eyed penguin. The forest for me was spectacular. Great lines of petrified wood could be seen from the observation deck, running towards the ocean. The trunks of trees that had fallen some 180 million years ago. The stumps were largely eroded but still present throughout the bedrock. It was like walking through the past, stepping back to a time when man did not exist and life was far from what we know today. It was a wonderful reminder that although it may not always be obvious, when you look at a rock, you are looking at a time capsule, a piece of data that tells you what the earth was like in the past, albeit a specific moment and a specific point if it is a pebble. Rocks are windows to the past, they can tell you what the environment was like at some point in the past, and the rock walls with their many layers are like pages of a history book, just waiting for someone to examine and interpret their meaning. Yet another reason why I love geology.




So I explored the fallen trees while Mary-Ellen and Lisa kept a lookout for returning penguins from the observation deck. We got a bit discouraged when we read that at this time of your the parents are molting and not feeding much, which meant our chances of seeing one would be slim. But much to our surprise, and with great spotting by Lisa, there was not only one, but two penguins, sitting almost directly below the observation deck. We were incredibly lucky that Lisa thought to look straight down, as I for one would not have expected them to stay so close to the deck where people would be able to see them. Nevertheless, there they were, sitting next to piles of feathers and much as we were, sitting crouched down trying to stay warm in the chilly rain. It was stupendous to get the opportunity to see these penguins, one of the most endangered penguins in the world and endemic only to New Zealand.



Content with our sighting of these amazing creatures, we piled back into the car and started our backtracking to Invercargill. Although tired, I made one last scenic stop, to Waipapa Point lighthouse. No sea lions here as well, but the stormy skies made for a fitting backdrop to a historic building that would have once been critical for travelling ships to direct them away from the crashing rocks we had been admiring all day.



As the sun set we managed to get ourselves back to Invercargill, get our accommodations settled, and get a proper feed at Lonestar restaurant. With bellies full of warm, Southwestern American food, we grabbed some warmer clothes before hauling our tired bodies back to the holiday park to get some much needed rest.


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